This past weekend Greta, András and I were in Virginia and
North Carolina, and we were bad—really bad. I’m talking buttery grits, sweet
tea, biscuits and Nutter-Butters bad. So this week I’ve been craving nothing
but kale salads and beet juice, the kind of cleansing food that gets me back on
track, mentally and physically, from my sugar-induced slump. But then, there’s
this cold that’s creeping in. And hot chocolate calls.
Sigh.
It’s nothing a good trip to the farmer’s market can’t fix.
Here’s how it went. Greta and I set out for our weekly Wednesday trip to our
teeny market, just two strides out my front door— our neighborhood’s greatest
gift. I had two facts in my head as we went: First, the market is just week’s
away from its winter hiatus, which starts after Thanksgiving, a deadline I don’t
take lightly. And second, today we had just $20 cash, half our usual market stipend
that has us in a week’s worth of fresh fruits and vegetables, a jug of cider
and one cider donut apiece. What can you buy with $20 at the market? Amazing,
intriguing vegetables—always cheaper than fruits—bunches of greens and piles
upon piles of roots. Beets. Potatoes. Black Radish. Kale. Broccoli. Tokyo Turnips.
I saw a salad coming on.
Last week at an incredible dinner at Il Buco, I had a
Grilled Filet of Spanish Mackerel with filet beans and raw Tokyo Turnips, a
bracing, surprising success that I haven’t stopped thinking about since. The turnips were calling my name, as were the black radishes whose brooding, elephantine
skin conceals their gleaming white core.
I had a vision of a clean salad forming, full of crisp, fall
flavors, knobby bits of aged crystalline Parmesan cheese,
and roasted almonds. All crunch, substance, flavor. Back home, as I worked my
way around the roots with my camera, I got hungrier, so I threw a few potatoes
and some garlic in the oven to roast. And the smell.... well, you know the
smell of roasted garlic and potatoes.
What’s left, after my split personalities went their
separate ways, is two different but equally delicious salads: one pure and raw,
the essence of every vegetable, the other, warm and raw melting together, the
give of roasted potato between every bite of earthy kale and crisp radish. Both
alive. Both the kind of salad you might enjoy, say, as a lunch or a first
course, of if you’re still in the mood for being bad, as an easy meal eaten along
side a few fine slices of charcuterie with a glass of Chimay. So much for clean. Either
way, lean or lux, both are at home on any table—carnivore or vegetarian. Take
your pick:
~
Black Radish Salad with Broccoli, Tokyo Turnips, Kale,
Almonds and Parmesan Cheese
Serves 2 to 4
½ head Tuscan/ Black Kale/Cavolonero, cut in bite-sized
pieces
3 tablespoons high quality extra virgin olive oil
Juice of ½ lemon
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 small head fresh broccoli, florets and stems, thinly
sliced lengthwise
1 large black radish, thinly sliced or cut in bite-sized
pieces
2 small Tokyo Turnips, thinly sliced
4 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, broken in bits
1/3 cup roasted, unsalted almonds, roughly chopped
Fleur de sel or sel gris, for garnish
Toss the kale
together with the olive oil and lemon juice in a large bowl. Season with salt
and pepper. Massage the kale, squeezing and rubbing the leaves together with
your hands, working the oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper into the leaves to
flavor and tenderize them. Toss together with the broccoli, turnips, parm, and
almonds. Divide between plates. Garnish with fleur de sel and more ground
pepper; serve at room temperature.
~
Black Radish Salad with Tokyo Turnips, Roasted Potatoes, Apples,
and Manchego
Serves 2 to 4
1 handful fingerling or banana potatoes, halved lengthwise
4 cloves garlic, in their skin, smashed
4 cloves garlic, in their skin, smashed
5 tablespoons high quality extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
½ head Tuscan/ Black Kale/Cavolonero, cut in bite-sized
pieces
Juice of ½ lemon
1 small crisp, tart apple, thinly sliced
1 large black radish, thinly sliced or cut in bite-sized
pieces
2 small Tokyo Turnips, thinly sliced
1/3 cup roasted, unsalted almonds, roughly chopped
2 ounces Manchego cheese, thinly sliced
Fleur de sel or sel gris, for garnish
Preheat the oven
to 400 degrees F.
Toss the potatoes, garlic, 1 tablespoon olive oil, salt and pepper together until coated and spread onto a
baking sheet in a single layer. Roast until soft with golden brown edges, about
30 minutes.
Toss the kale
together with the remaining olive oil and lemon juice in a large bowl. Season
with salt and pepper. Massage the kale, squeezing and rubbing the leaves
together with your hands, working the oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper into
the leaves to flavor and tenderize them. Toss together the roasted potatoes,
turnips, apples, and almonds. Divide between plates. Scatter the cheese over
the top. Garnish with fleur de sel and more ground pepper; serve at room
temperature.
Photos and Recipes © Sarah Copeland 2012
Please credit source when using on Pinterest. All other uses require permission via email.
1 comment:
What a beautiful, lovely salad! Love this!
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