{The Highchair Chronicles} Let them Eat....Everything!

{Quentin eats, photo by Jennifer Martine}

Babe: Quentin

Mama: Jennifer
Q's Birthday: September 17

Isn't it strange that you can actually make a friend through Twitter? Jennifer Martine is my first and best twitter friend. {I guess that makes us BTFs}. I knew her name because she photographed the gorgeous photos in my friend Louisa's luminous book, Lucid Food. I started following Jennifer on Twitter to keep up with her pretty pictures, and when we figured out we had babes  about the same, age, we started talking purees. Before long, we were trading photos of our kiddos feasting on their first forkfuls of our yummy creations. Today's Jennifer's birthday, and I thought it would make her day to share a classic shot of her feeding her beautiful boy, Quentin, who just turned one, and along with it, what she's learned since he first hit the chair. I love her breezy, mother's-instinct-is-best approach to feeding, and I think you will too: 

"When I started feeding Quentin solids I couldn't believe how quickly he took to it. Maybe we got lucky -- he's just a product of two foodie parents -- I don't know.  But I do think there had to be something about the encouraging (nom, nom, nom) sounds I would make and the smile on my face that made him feel comfortable about it. I also did my best to time the feedings after a small bottle so that he wasn't totally starving and frantic but also got his taste buds going. I would mash up banana and avocado, add some whipped up peas and just experiment away. Sometimes, I would just think in general of the equation of something sweet + something savory+ something really healthy. Broccoli+Apples+Banana or Squash+Banana+Avocado. Then we started whizzing up some of whatever we were eating like pasta or chicken and potato. Only a couple of times Quentin not like the texture of something or if it was too bland he would get bored. I was amazed at how easily he took to different flavors,even spicy or garlicy stuff, he just loved it all! 

Then as he got more into it I started giving him things he could feed himself like big slices of oranges, teething biscuits and and those puffs you can buy that dissolve easily. As he got more experienced I tried different textures and chunkier mixtures. You could tell that he was learning how to chew things long enough to swallow and I trusted him to figure it out. It was hard at first not worrying that he was going to choke on something all the time and I had to give him the chance to learn how to chew big bites. Now he eats with abandon. Savory, spicy, sweet, sour. He eats what we eat, we feed him off of our plate, we let him try to feed us, etc. etc. We just make it fun, we don't stress and let him taste just about everything." 

There are many awesome ideas for feeding your babes that come from Jennifer and her hubby Tyler's experience feeding Quentin, and their attitudes around food, but here are my two faves: 


Rule #2: Let them taste everything {as long as it's safe}: 
Yes, there's a little list foods that are generally known to be unhealthful, too acidic or higher risk for allergies for babes under one {like citrus, peanut butter and cows milk}. Talk to your pediatrician for guidance. Beyond that, feed your babies FLAVOR!  Don't assume they won't like a food because it's too "grown up" or because you don't like it. Babies like sweet, sour, spicy and savory--even garlic-- just like we do! 


Rule #3: Create a formula that works: 
When you start combining foods, create a go-to formula that makes meal planning and preparation easier, like Jennifer's": something sweet + something savory+ something really healthy. Try Broccoli+Apples+Banana or Squash+Banana+Avocado or Pears, Peas and Avocado. 

What are your food formulas and favorite combos to keep your little ones engaged in their thrones? 

Five Vows for Newlywed Cooks

brooklyn, ny

Dinner in our home can be an effortless affair. I’m kind of crazy into cooking, and hubby is such a good eater, he’s fine with whatever I whip up. Occasionally, Julius commands the reigns, and it’s fun to see what he creates. But it takes time to iron out the inner workings of newly wedded mealtimes, so I thought I’d share a few tips that help make our kitchen a place where love, peace and deliciousness reign supreme.

If my sweetie loves it, I will make it again: When I first began cooking for Julius, he’d complain that he never would get a chance to have a favorite because I rarely made the same thing twice. I still like to experiment, but now, on those nights when I stare into the fridge willing dinner to simply emerge, I am grateful to have a few dishes in my repertoire that are as reliable and winning as toast + butter. What better foundation of said collection than the meals you and your honey love best?

We will adopt a No Vegetable Left Behind policy: Oh the first year of marriage: comforting pasta dishes, Modern Family cocktail hour, jaunts to the Chocolate Room to share a perfect brownie sundae—it’s bliss, but it can make your skinny jeans angry. Our advice: develop a few ways to prepare veggies that are so good, the two of you will be happy to eat them a few times a week. Don’t worry; we have you covered with a recipe to get you started.

Together, we will develop a system: In our home, whoever is doing the cooking is not washing dishes; other couples alternate days or weeks on KP, and some make a few meals on Sunday to last the week. Your approach will depend on how you feel about cooking, work schedules and all of that un-fun stuff, but even a loose arrangement may prevent silly tiffs about meal logistics.

I will learn something new: If even you are bored with your meal before you make it, consider trying a new technique, a new dish, a new spice—something to jazz up your food life; eating with variety not only satiates and develops a curious palate, but it also boosts nutrition. Take a class, buy a cookbook or steal a few moves from a foodie friend who cooks.

If I’m not cooking, I’m not looking: No one likes a backseat driver or a Monday morning quarterback, so do not micromanage your beloved when he is preparing a meal for you, even if you are just trying to help. It is annoying and condescending (or so I’ve been told).

Bonus Vow! I will say thank you: There is a pretty much global proverb that goes something like this: Be Grateful. So in the spirit of heeding ancient wisdom, if your spouse puts forth A-level effort and produces a C-quality meal, the loving thing to do is just eat it.

We told you ours, now you tell us yours. What vows or strategies rule your newlywed kitchen?

~

 Kale Salad

Kale salad is all the rage these days, and this version is one of my favorites and a crowd pleaser, to boot. Ideally, this dish would be made a few hours before serving so the kale has some time to break down, but you can make it as little as 30 minutes in advance. Leftovers make a delicious lunch.

To make salad, combine juice of 1 lemon, about 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, 2 teaspoons grainy mustard (optional) and 1 small clove of pressed garlic in a large bowl. Add 1 bunch of washed and dried thinly sliced kale and toss to coat completely. I prefer lacinato, as pictured above, but other varieties work just as well. To the kale mixture, add 1/4 cup each of chopped kalamata olives and grated hard Italian cheese (such as parmigiano reggiano, grana padano, piave or pecorino romano), a handful of toasted pine nuts and salt and pepper to taste. Toss again to combine, and enjoy!

Eat Well,

Kamilah

Adventures in Eating: The Highchair Chronicles

{first meal: before}

Ever since the first day we fed Greta solid food, when she was just shy of 6 months, I've been taking pictures of her. I'll never forget the first meal I cooked for her -- organic spinach, triple washed; locally grown cage-free hen egg yolks, soft-cooked, with chives from the garden -- determined I was to feed her only perfect foods. It was a Tuesday at my parent's house. My mom twisted up one of her soft, faded dish towels and tied Greta into the painted wooden highchair that's been introducing kids and grand kids to solids since my Dad had his first fistful of food 60-some years ago.

As I fed her those first spoonfuls, with Grandma and Granddad eagerly watching over {Grandpa's LOVE to see babies eat and get nice and chubby}, I tried to imagine what messages that sweet little mouth was sending to her brain. "This, food, exists? This is WONDERFUL." She smacked her tiny lips and opened her mouth for more. My heart leapt. "My baby loves healthy foods! She loves her mamma's cooking. Yah, YAH!"

In that short meal, we experienced a huge range of emotion, from utter delight to tearful baby meltdown. "Waah, where's my mamma's milk? It's so much easier. So delicious. Hold me."

{first meal: after}

In the 4 or so months since, I've been snapping moments of Greta in her little throne {her highness, as my friend Tara calls her daughter Abby when she eats}. I'm not sure exactly what it is about it that makes me run for my camera or more often my iphone, mid-spoonful. Of course I love my baby girl, and I obviously love food. But even more, there's a sense of discovery that happens each time a babe discovers a new taste, a new texture -- a wonder that is so easy to miss in life.

With all the politics and politeness around what you should and shouldn't feed your babes, when to start and where it all comes from, writing about what you feed your baby in public space is a slippery slope. But here's the thing, it's such a fun, important thing to talk about. And despite all my training in food and family nutrition, I still learn the most from other mammas. So, I'm going to start posting those photos, and stories, recipes and tips and tricks, and hopefully some of yours, about what makes those moments we share around the highchair some of the funniest, happiest moments of our day.

Along the way, I'll share the rules {and I use that term loosely} I've learned and keep learning since that first meal and I'd LOVE to hear yours too! What was the first food you fed your babe, and when? And What's your number one rule of thumb at feeding time?

Here's mine:

Rule #1 ~ Make Mealtime Fun 

No matter what food we're introducing to Greta, or where we are when we eat it {her highchair, a picnic blanket, a park bench}, we love to make eating together fun. A happy time and happy place as a family. I’m not talking about food in packages with trinkets inside and characters on the box fun, or making silly noises to get your babe to eat things they think are yucky fun. I mean simple, stress-free fun, whether the meal ends up in their mouth or on the floor. Have fun growing, cooking and sharing the things you love with this wonderfully absorbent, curious little person. 

 
xo
Sarah

{Escapes} Apple Picking in the Hudson Valley

stone ridge, ny

Today’s the first day of autumn, so there couldn’t be a more perfect day to tell you about this orchard upstate that I’m kind of crazy enchanted with. I admit, I’ve been falling in love with orchards since I was toddling along the fallen Jonagolds at the Edward’s Apple Orchard in Popular Grove, Illinois. But this orchard, I swear, is not like any I’ve ever seen before. It’s not enchanted in that coiffed-Donna-Hay-picnic-between-the-rows-of 200-year-old-trees kind of way. No, this is more of a fell-down-the-rabbit-hole-and-something-is-not-quite-right-but-I-kind-of-like-it way.

It all started with a rustic “Mr. Apple: Organic Apples” sign that Greta and I have been passing on Route 213 most Sundays of our tenure as weekender’s upstate. That’s when we take our Sunday drive to the High Falls Flea, while András is back in our half-finished house working on any number of un-baby-friendly projects. The sign pops up just after the sign for Hopshead Craft Beer Market and just before the sign for the Northern Spy Restaurant, other country intrigues, but with oft a sleeping baby by my side, I’ve never stopped. Until…

For the last two weeks, my mom’s been in town watching Greta while I cook and write, which has given me the inspiration and courage to explore every number of country curiosities on weekends. She’s been the best sport imaginable, smiling away the day in a house with no bath, scarce supplies and a film of fresh sawdust on sills and floors following every weekend project. We’ve really resurrected the old farm girl in her. She’s even adopted a bit of the infectious free-spiritedness in the air up here. And in perfect timing, since you need a little farm girl (mixed with a little Woodstock) in you to enjoy the bare, un-commercial beauty in Mr. Apple’s Orchard.

There, up a long gravel drive, is another sign to pull up and honk. We did. With Greta on my hip and mom at my side, we exchanged hellos with Mr. Apple before we set forth with a nary a rule to collect a bagful of his double-fist-sized Macs.

Thanks to the rains and hurricanes, and the rot of the apples that fall to the ground, and absence of pesticides, there are bugs. And oddities. But what I love about this orchard is this: You are the only apple pickers. And for the half hour or hour that you’re there, these trees, this orchard, is yours. There’s no crowds, no rules, no hay bales. Just land dense with trees, branches packed to their very max capacity with crisp, juice-laden apples. 

You'll find the black blemishes characteristic of wildly grown apples, but with a little scrubbing, beneath them is gleaming red and good flavor. 

With those apples, we’ve had an almost nightly baked apple for our supper sweet. We’ve have had heaps of peeled macs simmering in our sole copper pot for sauce. We’ve made apple-turnip-and-carrot mash for Greta’s lunch and grated apples over our morning oats. Until there were no more.

“I have to admit, I was skeptical about these apples,” mom said, as we finished the last of them. “But they have the most incredible flavor.”  

The next weekend, we convinced András to come picking. For the sake of research and Mom (and András, who likes a tidier Sunday outing) we picked instead at the Stone Ridge Orchard, on the same stretch of Route 213. Here, for the same prices, we found pretty rows of trees dotted with crisp, bright red Romes, sweet-tart Empires and fat Cortlands for cooking. Here there were families, babes in backpacks, Boy Scouts, pies for sale and rules for picking. Here, if you wanted, you could have a hayride, or a hike along their long path that spans the rounded landscape lined with youthful, healthy trees.

And back at home, without a doubt, the lush apples in our bag of loot are going just as fast.

Just a stone’s throw from the NY State Thruway (87) are two very fine orchards, both worth a trip from the city. Here’s how to find them, and more details on what you’ll find there:

Stone Ridge Orchard

3012 Route 213

Stone Ridge, NY

www.stoneridgeorchard.com

Though not organic, the Stone Ridge orchard uses Integrated Pest Management, which means they spray non-chemical solutions to control bugs. Look for a lad called Shane, who can tell you just about anything you need to know about those apples---which ones are ready and what they taste like, the history of the orchard and why we should all go and pick in the name of saving that lovely land. As it turns out, some developers have outright offered to buy the land to develop it into a strip mall. Exactly the kind of thing that has no place on a country road. Elizabeth Ryan, who owns Breezy Hill Orchard and leases the Stone Ridge Orchard, is bound and determined to save that land. And I’ll put at least half dozen bushels on her if that will help. For more information, check out the Friends of the Stone Ridge Orchard website or Facebook page to help save the orchard.

Now picking: McIntosh, Rome, Empire, Cortland

Mr. Apples Orchard

25 Orchard Street

High Falls, N.Y

http://mrapples.com/

(845) 687-0005

(845) 687-9498

What he calls Organic Style apples, or low-spray, meaning he sprays in the spring only, before the bud of the fruit arrives. His website boasts: Chat with Philip Apple while you taste the magical airDon't mind the bugs in Mr. Apple’s magical air, whose presence means reduced exposure to pesticides for you.  His trees and his apples, fancy or not, are just right. Wash the apples well with organic fruit spray before peeling or eating. 

Now picking: McIntosh, Golden Delicious

Newlyweds Cook: Nicole + Justin

Making friends as a grown-up can be difficult, but when these two lovebirds moved overseas, they found the best way to get acquainted with the locals was with a warm invitation to break bread at their table. Now they are king and queen of the dinner party, and when you try Nicole's signature dish below, you'll understand why they hold that title.  

{photo by Clary Pfeiffer}

Nicole + Justin
London, England

Travel. Culture. Celebration. Love. These words describe the sort of life we have created for ourselves, and food punctuates each of them.

About two and a half years ago, Justin’s work brought us to London. Though we had a few friends here already, we found that when it came to making more, good food by way of a casual dinner party was the perfect gesture. If there is one thing we have learned throughout our travels—whether it’s over schnitzel in Berlin’s boystown or a glass of homemade strawberry wine in a Brussels brothel-turned-bar—it’s that great friendships and delicious food can be discovered in the most unsuspecting places.

When we entertain, we prefer to live it up and laugh over rustic homemade organic dishes, and often our menus are inspired by friendships—new and old—that have formed over a shared meal many miles from home. Though a full sit-down dinner is more intimate, most urban dwellers like us can only accommodate a few people, so we convert our favorite entrées to a tapas style menu, which allows us to expand our guest list and the variety of food. The added appeal of tapas is that some dishes can be prepared in advance and others can be brought out well into the night so guests can mingle and nibble with leisure, fully savoring the food.

Our dinner parties are often guided by a theme, usually influenced by the city we’ve most recently visited. For example, consider an Italian tapas menu with a few homemade pizzas, deconstructed caprese salad, and homemade ravioli along with your best replication of the sauce you had at that tiny osteria in Tuscany. Whatever your location or travel destination, real or fantasized, let it shape your next party menu and see where it takes you.

Nicole’s recipe for tuna tartare is below. It was originally made for a light, relaxing lunch but is now an often requested must-have dish, easily prepared beforehand.

~

Tuna Tartare

8 ounces of sushi grade tuna

1 avocado

2 scallions, sliced
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

1 teaspoon wasabi paste

2 tablespoons low sodium soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

Juice of ½ lime

Deep fried wontons or crackers to serve

Chop tuna and avocado into bite size pieces. Add scallions. While sesame seeds are toasting, combine the wasabi paste, soy sauce and rice vinegar in a bowl until the wasabi is incorporated. Add the lime juice. Pour dressing over the tuna and avocado until coated. Add toasted sesame seeds. Serve with deep fried wonton wraps or crackers. Leave refrigerated until ready to serve.

Active prep time: 10 minutes


Tell us, newlyweds, when it's time to feed a crowd, what's your go-to dish?

Flirting With Fall, But Still Holding Tight to Tomatoes { aka. how to ripen green tomatoes}

With any luck, we'll be eating tomatoes until Thanksgiving. It happens just about every year. We get our plants in late, and survive August on the generosity of our neighboring green-thumbs and the hand-picked treasures of our local farmers. But come September, October and even those first weeks of November, we're in business.

Depending on what climate you live in, September can be peak tomato season. And it's also just cool enough to turn back on your oven or stove. And you know what that means. Yep, BLTS.

It's also the time of the year when the garden gets kind of murky. Plants start to shrivel and suffer from lack of sun,  even with their plump green 'maters still attached. I love nothing more than a sun-ripened tomato that stays on its vine until you pluck it still warm into your hot little hand. But this year's been rough on the garden. Ever since Irene, it's been all about green tomatoes or no tomatoes at all. I let my pale orange-yellow ones ripen to a rosy blush on my windowsill, but if you've got a bunch of greenies, here's a little trick I learned from our neighbor, who at this very moment has 122 of his home-grown  tomatoes ripening on his kitchen table.

1. If your vine is going or the weather threatens of frost, pick tomatoes from them when they are pale green and yellowing, and set aside any rock hard green ones for cooking.  

2. Wrap each tomato in tissue or newspaper and lay them stem side down, where they are their toughest. Keep them in a cool, dark place until they begin to blush. Unwrap and let them finish ripening on the kitchen counter until deep red. 

You won't get quite the same texture as those ripened on the vine in the sun, but they'll beat a grocer's tomato on taste every time. Long live the late-season BLT.

Newlyweds Cook: Kamilah + Julius

Call me old fashioned, but I believe all that business about food being the way to a man's heart (though in truth, it's the way to a lot of ladies hearts too). I'm a bit of a sucker for anyone who embraces the innocent hope that their cooking can cast a spell on their beloved. So I have to hand it to my friend Kamilah Duggins for putting her charms to work to nab her hubs, Julius.

Kamilah and I were pals way back in Journalism school at the University of Missouri. We talked more about getting the story than getting the guy back then, but when she turned up ten years later (just a subway ride away in Brooklyn, no less), I was thrilled to learn that we share a crazy love for food and our guys. I'm thrilled to introduce you to our Newlyweds Cook editor, Kamilah and her husband Julius, our debut Newlyweds. Here is their story:

Kamilah + Julius
Brooklyn, NY

So many details escape me about that winter evening six years ago when I first had Julius over for dinner. Memory of the weather, what I wore or what music was on the old-school boom box in my kitchen—all the stuff lovers swear they'll never forget—has quietly faded into the background and made way for other, newer moments. But I do remember something of an electric feeling as I buzzed around that day in preparation. It was our first date at my apartment. We had seen each other six, maybe seven times, and I may have already called my friend Amanda to tell her I had met the man I would marry.

I breezed through the market and tidied up the shabby, not-so-chic Brooklyn apartment I shared with three guys who were probably away playing a gig that night. As I stirred the pot, I caught myself daydreaming about how he might react when the first bite of this meal passed his lips. Would he put the fork down and close his eyes to silently savor the magic? Or break into a smile that said what a lucky guy he was? It sounds ridiculous, I know. But what can I say? When it comes to cooking, and almost nothing else, I’m a little bit of a show-off (this also applies to game night; if Taboo or Catchphrase is involved, you want me on your team).

In an effort to impress, but not overwhelm, I chose West Indian style curry shrimp as my entree. It was simple, but the flavors were complex; humble, but still special; familiar, but in the cold of winter, transporting; and most importantly, the star ingredient was Julius’s favorite. Unless he just happened to hate curry, this, I knew, would be a slam dunk.

When he arrived, the air was redolent of cumin, coriander, ginger and cinnamon, a comforting backdrop for the headiness of our energy together. When it was time to eat, I made our plates, sat down, watched as he took a bite, and waited for it: The widening of his eyes, the exclamation to form in his mouth, something that would tell me he was utterly blown away. That this meal was like manna from heaven.

But that’s not what happened. Not so much as groan of satisfaction left his mouth. Instead, he returned to his pre-dinner conversation, and that was that. Evening slipped into night and he hadn’t even said if he liked it.

Ladies and gentleman, my bubble had been burst.

When I ask Julius what he remembers about that date, he says he sensed my mood was somewhat deflated after dinner that night, but he wasn't sure why. When I brought it up months later, his defense was that he cleaned his plate and asked for seconds. What more did I need? I don’t know. In my family when it comes to food, if you like it, you say so. And if it’s really good, you go on about it.

I guess that’s the fun and maddening thing about marriage: while we are joining hands and committing to build a future together, we are silently bringing all of our ‘ways’ with us. My family talks, but Julius comes from a clan of doers.

As it turns out, he loved that meal. Between that and the chocolate chip peanut butter cookies I donated to his super bowl party (I’ll have to give you that recipe sometime), he had all his friends convinced that I was a five-star chef. And ever since, he has been my favorite person to cook for. He likes the mistakes, he washes the dishes, and when we sit down to dinner together just about every night, he is so grateful, so appreciative. In fact, I can’t remember the last time he ate from our kitchen and didn’t tell me how good it was.

Now it’s your turn. We're dying to hear about the first meal you cooked for your love. Won't you tell us?

In the meantime, eat well.

Kamilah

Newlyweds Cook {food for forever newlyweds}

As some of you already know, my first cookbook, The Newlywed Cookbook: Fresh Ideas and Modern Recipes for Cooking with and For Each Other, is coming out in just a few short months. I can’t wait to finally share the recipes and foods that sustain the sweet (and sometimes salty) life I share with my hubby, András.

There’s the temptation to hear the word Newlywed and write off the topic as something only for real newbies. Honeymooners. But here’s the thing: Somewhere between getting married and writing a book proposal and signing a contract and writing said book, András and I celebrated our one-year anniversary. And then our two-year anniversary. And next month, just before the book hits the shelves, we’ll celebrate anniversary number three.

What is a newlywed, exactly? By definition, it’s someone recently married. The way I see it, in the big picture of a marriage that I very much hope tops five or six decades, we’ll be recently married for many years to come. But more importantly, we still feel like newlyweds, and in many ways (despite the recent addition of our baby bird, Greta), we still live like newlyweds too.

One of my life goals is to always live with András like newlyweds, to cook and eat together with the same reckless joy and passion of that first year together. In that spirit, I want to hear from other newlyweds and forever newlyweds about their lives together, to learn about what makes their relationship tick, how they share meals and messes in the kitchen, what they cook, and where they eat out when they’re not cooking, all of which has inspired the launch of my new column, Newlyweds Cook: Food for Forever Newlyweds. This is a column for newlyweds, oldyweds, almost weds and never weds who love cooking, eating and celebrating life together.

To honor our title, I’ve invited a newer newlywed to join me as our Newlywed Editor as we begin our pursuit to tell the stories and share the recipes (mine, hers and sometimes theirs) that keep us all well fed. I’m going to introduce you to her and her hunky hubby tomorrow, so please come back and meet them. In the meantime, get into your kitchen and flirt with your sous chef.  We’ll be looking for twosomes all over the globe to join our column month-by-month and share the things that make your kitchen the spirited center of your nest.

xx, 

Sarah

P.S. Follow us on twitter @NewlywedsCook

The Sweet Spot: Whole Wheat Semolina Peach Pancakes

hurley, ny

To say that I'm indecisive would be a grand understatement. For example, I can't decide which I love more, peach season or apple season. I can't decide if this post should be about the end of summer, or the beginning of fall, or whether I'll be baking peach upside down cake or tart tatin for tonight's dessert. 

Luckily, for a few more weeks, maybe even just two, I don't have to. We're in the sweet spot, those days when one season turns into another. The days when the last and most flavorful peaches show up at the market elbow to elbow with the first apples of the season. For a few more splendid days, us non deciders can have both. 

It is these days that are made for cooking. Peach pancakes for breakfast. Apple sauce simmering on the stove to savor warm from your favorite bowl as the nights turn cool.   

Since we have lots of time yet to talk about apples, let's end peach season with a strong finish. Here, for your Sunday brunch, the very pancakes that gave our weekend a perfectly peachy start. 

~

Whole Wheat-Semolina Peach Pancakes

1 2/3 cups white whole-wheat flour

2/3 cup semolina flour or finely ground cornmeal

2 tablespoons raw, organic sugar

1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

1 cup organic milk

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

2 large organic eggs

2 to 3 ripe local peaches, peeled and thinly sliced

pure maple syrup, for serving

serves: four

1. To make the pancakes, whisk together whole-wheat flour, semolina flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Whisk together the milk, melted butter and eggs in another bowl. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, and whisk in the wet ingredients until just incorporated into a thick batter.

2. Heat a nonstick griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat until a drop of water splashed on the pan sizzles. Brush the griddle lightly with melted butter. Use a 1/3-cup measure or a ladle to scoop pancake batter and drop it onto the hot pan, leaving about an inch or so between pancakes.

3. When bubbles form around the edges of the pancake, lay a few slices of peach into the batter on each pancake, leaving plenty of space between the fruit. Use a flexible spatula to gently lift and flip the pancake. Continue cooking on the other side until the pancakes are golden brown around the edges, about 2 minutes. Repeat, adding more butter to the pan as needed. Butter and serve warm with extra peaches and a drizzle of maple syrup. 

August Is...

...tomatoes eaten out of hand over the sink with a salt shaker. rhubarb upside down cake. two am rendezvous with the last slice of watermelon. corn on the cob. rain storms. poolside naps. baskin robins peanut butter and chocolate ice cream. two chapters in the hammock. michigan peaches. the county fair. fleeting. 

Best of the Rockford Farmer's Market

rockford, il

I’m not sure if my mom got it from me, or I got it from her, but we both love a good farmer’s market. We’re fortunate to have one on Wednesdays just up the street from our family home in Rockford, Illinois, so during my week home resting and cooking in my virtual test kitchen (mom’s kitchen), my sister Jenny and I went to check it out. I hadn’t been in years, maybe even ten, and I wasn’t prepared for what we found there—an absolute jewel of a market filled with astoundingly delicious locally-grown produce at incredibly fair prices. There’s also world-class cheeses, alluring bunches of fresh flowers and the best pizza I’ve had all summer (which is saying something, since I live in New York). 

While I can’t claim to have tried it all, here are three standouts that should not be missed:  

Van Laar’s Fruit Farm Stand

Capron, IL

It was the sweet face of Rachel Van Laars, the fourth of the five Van Laar’s children, that got my attention as much as the sweet corn she was selling. Her conversation kept me there, the confident manner in which she conducted business and answered my questions about life on the farm with her brothers and sisters. Admittedly, I wanted to crawl inside their family truck and head home, if just for a day, to what seems a more innocent world, the precious and fleeting institution of the family farm. Instead, I took home an armful of their sweet corn and heaps of heirloom tomatoes, which delivered on their promise of simpler times. Besides their inviting selection of fruits and vegetables, don't miss their locally grown and milled whole-wheat four and wheat berries.    

Cheese from The Cheese People of Beloit

Beloit, WI

Here you’ll find an all-around great selection of fresh and aged cheese, mostly regional (yah for artisan Wisconsin cheese!) with the occasional import (like the buttery sheep's milk Lamb Chopper from Cypress Grove). Do not miss the Raspberry Bellavitano from Wisconsin, a subtly sweet and sharp cheese aged in New Glarus Raspberry Ale, named the Best New Cheese and Cheese of the Year at the 2008 World Cheese Awards in Ireland. The Cheese People keep their cheeses wrapped in plastic due to local health codes, but since cheese is a living, breathing food, be sure to rewrap it in wax or cheese paper before you store it in your fridge. Or better yet, put it out right away to enjoy.

WoodFire Brick Oven Pizza by Joe D'Astice

Rockford, IL

This pizza is every bit as good as it looks. Let the line that forms in front of the mobile brick-oven operation speak for itself. Eight dollars will buy you a very, very good lunch.

There are a dozen or more farmers worth getting acquainted with at this market alone (like the folks selling the brilliant bouquets of zinnias, and the lady at the south end who sold me plump organic eggplant and crisp purple peppers). I’ll be returning once more on my way to O’Hare as I head back east, and again and again whenever I’m in town. 

In case you miss today’s Edgebrook market, here’s a list of all the farmer’s markets, locations, dates and times in Rockford.

Rockford

COLONIAL VILLAGE FARMERS' MARKET

Newburg Road & Alpine Road

Late May through October, Fridays from 9am to 1pm.

815-398-3350

Rockford

EDGEBROOK FARMERS' MARKET

Edgebrook Shopping Center

Wednesdays. First week in June - last week in October: 9 am to 1 pm.

815-226-0212

Rockford

MIDTOWN FARMERS' MARKET

222 Seventh Street

Fridays, 3pm to 8pm. The best produce from our local farmers including seasonal vegetables, fruits, herbs, plants, flowers and more.

815-961-1269

Rockford

NORTH END COMMONS FARMERS' MARKET

1400 North Main Street, West lot

Saturdays, May through October, from 8am to noon.

815-962-1234

Rockford

RIVER DISTRICT FARMERS MARKET

YMCA South Lot, 215 Y Blvd

Tuesdays and Saturdays, 8am to noon. Take time out of your busy day to do some healthy eating shopping which features low prices and locally grown organic produce.

815-964-6221

Rockford

PERRYVILLE FARMERS MARKET

Perryville Commons, South Perryville Road and Fincham Drive

Saturdays through October from 9am to 1pm.

815-229-3000

An Epic Watermelon Day

Remember watermelon seed spitting contests? I know, it's hard to. Because if you're part of my generation, watermelons have been seedless for nearly half our lives.

But I do have dozens of memories of sitting hip to hip with my grubby-kneed sibs on the edge of the back deck hunched over slices of melon so big our faces were lost in them. I remember coming up for air and spitting seeds as the juices dripped down our wrists toward our elbows. I especially remember watching my dad stand over the sink and skillfully flick away the black seeds into the sink as he turned the melon flesh in his hands, yielding precious, giant chunks of seedless flesh for his lush saturday fruit salads. But these seem like almost ancient memories.

I can hardly think of a food I love more than watermelon, and to this day I could easily eat half a watermelon myself  (mostly because without the seeds, there is nothing to slow me down). Which is why, when I got a load of the whole watermelon sitting on a stool in the back pantry at Andras parents house yesterday, I nearly clapped with glee. It wasn't just the sheer size of it – easily 17 inches long, surely more than 8 kilos –it was its shape, fat and grooved, deep, dark green like a watermelon I remember from childhood.

"Now that is a watermelon!" I almost shouted, and ran to get my camera.

Andras nor his parents couldn't understand why I would want a photo of a watermelon sitting on a dingy stool. By now they are used to  me taking photos of well, almost everthing we eat, but a watermelon?

"A watermelon like this is nearly extinct in America," I said, with no facts to back up my hypothesis. 

"Really?" Andras questioned the source of my statement, but I had only this: I couldn't count the number of watermelon we'd eaten together in the last 4 years on 10 hands. Not one of them was anything but pale green and smooth, with one-dimensional rinds. Not one had a single seed, not even those wussy white ones that used to be there when seedless watermelon were new on the scene.

Sure enough, when we split this one open, it was brilliant pink, dotted with a maze of shiny black seeds, the kind that made the heart so precious, and the firm, seedless pale pink portion nearer the rind like the tender claw meat of the lobster, worth the work. 

"Where did you get this?" I asked. I was imagining a magical field somewhere, gilded in golden light, with enormous watermelon resting on the soil amongst endless chubby vines.

It turned out this watermelon came from the watermelon truck.

I'd heard about this watermelon truck once while eating melon with Andras back home. It was the Mr. Softee truck of his childhood summers, a regular neighborhood fixture on hot summer afternoons. There were no details attached to his stories, only that this truck piled to the heavens with dinnye (watermelon) would circle the neighborhood bringing the very best melons to your front door. Ah, the romance of a childhood in Europe.

The next morning, just before leaving for a long drive to Romania, Papa came running in the house to get me in a flurry of words.


Gyere. He said. Come. The Dinnye truck had arrived. I came running with cameras. 

I don’t know what I had pictured (a wooden gypsy cart pulled by a team of horses, perhaps?), but it wasn’t a 1988 Citreon hatchback with a loud speaker on the top.  But once I saw these seasoned watermelon traders in action, my disappointment dissipated. I watched from the sidelines, noting every detail. The way he picked the watermelon, held its weight, checked for the pale creamy spot on its underbelly. Then, like at a fine Pince (Vineyard), the merchant inserted a sharp, rounded knife and extracted a perfect cylander of plump pink melon, seeds, rind and all, for a taste. He held the knife out directly toward me. 

"Madame," he said. 

My teeth cut through the crisp, dripping flesh. Perfect. 

I can think of no finer culinary companion for an 8-hour family road trip than a Hungarian watermelon. We loaded it in the car, and hit the road east toward Romania, likely the very direction from which the watermelon came...

Back home, there's no dinnye truck on which to rely on for access to fine, fat watermelon. So in the sticky heat of the coming August days, take faith in your own watermelon-picking expertise.

~

How to Pick a Watermelon

1.     Look for a firm, symmetrical watermelon without cuts, bruises or dents.

2.     Look for a watermelon that is heavy for its size, full of delicious juices.

3.     Look for a creamy, pale yellow spot on one side that indicates the melon ripened in a field in the sun.

Wild Hungarian Plums & The Szilva Lekvar They Never Became

Veszprem, Hungary


Every year, we plan our trip to Hungary based on the seasons. We come in June for eper (strawberries). July for málna (raspberries) and meggy (sour cherries). October for körte (pears) and füge (figs). That we are here for plum season is a happy accident. And there is one plum in particular that has caught my attention — tiny purple plums that clustered on thin, tangeled branches like bunches of grapes.


Of all the stone fruits I adore, plums are my least favorite, thanks in part to growing up in a country where the fruits in most grocery stores have been whittled down to those that ship and sell well. Plums have been so unremarkable in my fruit-loving life that I can recall exactly three memorable plums: The first was one I picked directly from a tree, probably without asking, around the age of six. The tree in question belonged to our neighbors, the Weltes, and though I can't be sure the variety, the simple thought of having fruits grow on trees in your own backyard was transformative. The second, elegant sweet yellow mirabelles that I ate by the handful in St. Tropez two summers running, which are already gone from the trees here in Hungary. The third, the ruby-red fleshed Elephant Heart Plum, first grown in Sonoma County, California, a plum so spectacular that it is protected by the Slow Food Ark of Taste, lest it peril in extinction. 


There are over 2000 varieties of plums in the world, and, so I've read, at least 100 varieties grown in the United States alone. I've seen a handful of noteworthy ones in the biggest farmer's markets in New York and California, but these—these lila (purple) beauties I’ve never seen before. 

I run inside to consult Papa, and dig for his book entitled Fák (trees), the agrarian picture book that doubles as my guidebook to his backyard. I turned to the pages marked szilva. Plums. But when I explain, through András, what I’m looking for, I get a collective shake of heads from all parties.

“You won’t find that plum in a book.” András explains. “It’s a local plum. Wild.”

“So, what is it called?” I ask.

Kökeny Szilva

András smiles. Blueberry Plum, he translates.

It's a good description. Their color is deep purple-blue, with the same white bloom of a blueberry on its bush. 

I gather from the size of them, no bigger than the top digit of my thumb, there are only two things to do with them. Eat them by the handful ripe from the tree, or, turn them into preserves. 

Igen. Lekvar. Mamma says. 

Papa gestures his arms like an airplane. Aha, it is those that  same silva lekvar that didn’t make it back home with me on my most recent trip here in October, almost two years ago, due to the firm no liquids policy of the FAA (thought I maintain that lekvar is not a liquid). 

I feel a jam-making session coming on, and consider racing back to the yard to collect them all. Surely she doesn’t pit them first. I imagine she must cook them down, then pass them through the food mill, leaving all the pits behind. I explain, with gestures.

No. She shakes her head and charades herself pitting the tiny plum one by one in her chair in front of the TV. Bless her, she is a better woman than I. 

Suddenly, I’m quite tired, and the idea of pitting a few kilos of pici (tiny) plums seems like the work for another day. Besides, she has already put up several jars, plenty for spreading between our palicinta (pancakes) and over fresh kenyar (bread), and two extras she tucked aside for us to bring home (this time in our checked luggage). 

Of course, I recorded her method for another day, a time when it's my responsibility to keep the family in lekvar. I hope that day is a long ways away. 

If you come across a batch of special plums, here's Mamma's Recipe. This calls for sugar, required for the tart wild plums, but not for any sweet plum variety, which can be cooked down in its own juices until thick and sweet {I recommend the alluring fruit-lovers guide to all things preserves, The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook}. 

~

Szilva Lekvar

1 kilogram / 2 1/4 pounds tart plums, pitted

600 grams / 3 cups sugar 

makes 5 pint-size jars preserves

1. Combine plums and sugar in a large heavy-bottomed pot over low heat. Cook until completely broken down, stirring occasionally, about 2 hours. Puree with an immersion blender to desired consistency.
2. Can according the Ball canning guidelines (here), or pack in pint containers and refrigerate for up to 2 months.